Quality tools pay for themselves over and over. When you first think about it, snapping a $5 wrench on a $0.50 bolt might not seem like a big deal, but in reality you’re looking at a) busted knuckles, b) a rounded-off bolt that you get to spend all weekend trying to remove with even more tools that you now have to buy, and c) an entire weekend wasted because you bought cheap tools.

There is a diminishing rate of return as you approach top dollar brands like Snap-On and Matco, but if you’re a mechanic on a strict schedule, then they’re worth it for the delivery service alone. If you’re an average Joe, then mid-grade tools are likely all you need. Armstrong was my go-to brand until it was discontinued, but there are still plenty of great tools out there at reasonable prices.

Some brands to look for:

• Gearwrench (best value, budget friendly)
• TOPTUL (great value if you can find them)
• Blackhawk
• Blue Point
• Proto
• Wright
• S-K (SuperKrome)

TIP: Quality tools can be had for cheap if you buy them used, but tracking down a complete set is time consuming and availability is sporadic at best. Check out thrift stores and yard sales. eBay and pawn shops tend to have higher prices.

The foundation of any toolset is a comprehensive socket and ratchet set. You should have 1/4”, 3/8”, and 1/2” drive, although 1/4″ isn’t as vital for most applications. 1/2″ is necessary for big stuff like suspension and head bolts, 1/4″ is handy for work on modern aluminum engines, and 3/8” does about 80% of everything you can think of. You need deep sockets and shallow, but you don’t need 6 point and 12 point unless you’re building airplanes. 6 point is stronger, but a quality 12 point is still plenty strong. Tools are a lot cheaper when you buy a complete set, so start off with the most comprehensive socket set you can reasonably afford.

Sometimes you can’t fit a ratchet where it needs to go, and sometimes you need a backup wrench to stop a nut from spinning. A good combination wrench set is key here, and just like with sockets, you should buy a complete set right from the start to save money in the long run. 12 point wrenches are the norm as they are more versatile and easier to use.

Maybe not a necessity, but by far the handiest tool in my collection. My favorite is my 3/8” Armstrong flexhead fine tooth ratchet, which isn’t made anymore, but there are lots of comparable alternatives out there. Flexheads let you get a ratchet on bolts in tight spaces where you would otherwise spend 30 minutes trying to align a socket on swivel extensions with your finger tips, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and some chewing gum.

You need a torque wrench to make sure your rig doesn’t fall apart while you’re driving or spring a major leak. A 1/2″ drive will cover large suspension fasteners and head bolts, and 3/8” will cover just about everything else. Many modern engines have such low torques that a 1/4″ is necessary though, so if you tear apart an aluminum block you might need one of these. Fine tooth ratchets are a real lifesaver when working in tight spaces with any long-handled wrench. A great wrench is the Proto 3/8” drive fine tooth flex head, but there are other options that get the job done.

Pliers come in all shapes and sizes and virtually all of them come in handy. At the very least you should have a slip joint, needle nose, tongue and groove, and locking. You will also need wire cutters. Channellock is arguably one of the best brands for pliers, but the others listed are good too. Locking pliers are more limited in selection, with Grip-On and Knipex being great choices (Irwin is great for the price).

If you read forums, you’ll find that a good BFH is a necessity. In all honesty, you need at least one good ball peen, a good dead-blow, and likely an engineering hammer for stubborn parts (aka the BFH). Don’t ever hit anything other than a nail with a claw hammer, they’re made from very hard (read: brittle) steel and can break if you hit anything harder than a nail with it. Estwing makes great hammers for the price, and the steel handle is more forgiving if you miss.

A good bench vise is a key component of any mechanic’s garage. You won’t always need one, but they’re indispensable when something big and heavy needs to be held in place. Quality definitely matters here, as cheap cast iron vises are brittle and prone to breakage. You want either ductile (nodular) iron or steel. Wilton and Ridgid make terrific vises, and Yost’s ductile iron versions are really good budget vises (they’re what I use). Beware of entry level vises from any brand though, they are often cheap cast iron imports. Oh, and do yourself a favor and get some jaw pads.

Let’s face it, vehicles are becoming more and more electronics-dependent every day. Any mechanic needs at least a multi-meter and a code scanner. It’s a good idea to learn how to solder too, because crimp connectors add resistance and eventually fail, either from disconnecting or corroding. Don’t forget to put shrink tube on anything you solder!

TIP: Don’t buy a soldering iron, buy a soldering gun. Irons are for circuit boards, they don’t handle 16ga automotive wire very well.

The advantage of air tools for quick disassembly and breaking loose rusted fasteners is undeniable. There’s a reason all professional mechanics use them—it’s because they can cut the time it takes to do some jobs in half. They also can break stubborn bolts loose instantly. Whatever you do though, don’t use an impact wrench to tighten a fastener—they’re for removal only! Air ratchets, on the other hand, can be used for reassembly.

TIP: Impact sockets use softer steel than standard sockets. Standard sockets on an impact can shatter, and impact sockets on a standard ratchet will wear out faster.

Every garage needs an air compressor. It lets you run air tools, it blows junk off dirty parts, and it fills tires. I’ll admit I’m guilty of buying cheaper ones, but quality compressors do pay for themselves in the long run. Look for a compressor with a high CFM/PSI rating so you don’t underpower your impact wrench. Cast iron pumps last longer than oil-less designs but are heavier and require—you guessed it—compressor oil. Oh, and do yourself a favor and buy a vertical one. Floorspace is going to be at a premium if it isn’t already.

A good 4 1/2″ angle grinder will make quick work of parts that refuse to unbolt, and a Dremel will clearance small parts and help clean out buggered up holes.

If work on anything old or rusty, you’re going to need to drill out some bolts and tap a few holes, or at least clean them up with a tap and die. Extractors are the first line of attack on a broken fastener. Center punches become pretty important for centering the drill bit where you need it, and pin punches are useful for tapping on anything with a press-fit. Irwin taps and dies and extractors are made by Hanson and are some of the best around. Starrett and Mayhew make great punches, with Dasco being more budget-friendly.

There comes a time for every serious offroader to buy a welder. It might not seem necessary at first, and it probably isn’t, but adding a welder to your garage is like trading in your training wheels for a motorcycle. It completely changes your mindset when you realize what you can make.

Do yourself a favor and buy a 240V welder though (or a dual voltage welder). Sure, you can do a lot with a 110V with fluxcore, but the welds look like snot and you still won’t ever get anywhere near the strength and speed of a 240V welder. Don’t have a 240V outlet? Install one. It takes about 30 minutes, the guys at Home Depot will show you how.

There’s about a trillion specialty automotive tools out there, and while it doesn’t make sense to buy most of them right off the bat, there are some that will come in handy sooner than others. These include snap ring pliers, brake bleeders, seal drivers, O2 sensor sockets, oil filter wrenches, and flare nut wrenches to name a few. Some tools you might not need for a while but are likely to be needed eventually are a ball joint press, gear puller, slide hammer, and harmonic balancer puller.

When you decide to get really crazy and start removing or upgrading the drivetrain, you’re going to realize pretty quickly how heavy that stuff is. You’ll likely benefit from an engine hoist (they move axles and transmissions too), engine stand, transmission jack, and heavy duty utility cart. The same message for shop tools regarding quality applies here, not many people can afford the best of the best or even the worst of the best.